LE MARAIS: My favorite Paris

Le Marais is one of the oldest districts of Paris and by far my favorite. Characteristically constructed of meandering narrow streets, it holds some of oldest buildings in the City of Lights. Today it is filled with art galleries, intimate hangouts, the finest little boutiques and is the area which the gay community shares with the Orthodox Jewish population as well as with the trendy fashionistas. Quite an eclectic mix and definitely a must see destination while in Paris.
Le Marais (literally the swamp) is to some extent comparable to Soho or the Village in New York, it has that unconventional feel, that bohemian chic and a creative vibe, as well as some of the highest rents in Paris, and is referred to as “le village” by its inhabitants.
While stuffing your face with pain au chocolat or crepes in an old fashioned French boulangerie in this area you’ll notice people chatting away, saying hello to each other, because in the Marais everything is just around the corner, and people tend to know each other well, which adds to the charm and the omnipresent coziness.
Many small coffee shops, like les Philosophes, les Chaises au Plafond or les Etages offer that unique Parisian allure, small vintage stores are scattered around the winding streets and are neighbors to the trendiest boutiques in town. While strolling around you can of course stop at the countless modern art galleries, old bookshops, at the Picasso Museum, the Georges Pompidou Center or at the breath taking and rightfully renowned Place de Vosges built by Henry IV in 1612. It is a district filled with secret hideaways, majestic wooden gates, which when opened reveal magnificent court yards of old and characteristically Parisian Hotels Particuliers. One of the most prestigious dance schools in Paris, Le Centre de Danse du Marais, is located in such a secret courtyard. I spent many a days there dancing tango, flamenco or salsa, or just having a coffee and taking it all in. When you enter through the cobblestone paved entrance you are instantly transported into another world that of music and arts and are instantly stunned by the innate charm and the beauty of the architecture. Ralph Rucci, Martin Grant and Trash Couture are only a few designer brands with dazzling showrooms in this area. In terms of shopping, there are more options available here then your feet and wallet will be able to handle. However, if you want to live this experience to the fullest be sure to let your self get lost among the narrow streets, many hidden treasures await you there. Truly, nothing beats a day in the Marais, between the historic and cultural monuments, the romantic streets perfect for lazy sauntering and great fashion, you’ll not only feel the true pulse of Paris, you’ll be in the heart of its history, its particular beauty, and its true modern French chic. Also, le Marias is best for Sunday brunch!

Place: Artisan Parfumeur
32 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 75004 Paris
Why it’s hot: in true French tradition of perfume, you’ll find here a poetic
individual approach to fragrance making. If you are searching for a personal scent outside of the market trends and exploring new olfactory territories seems appealing to you, then this is a place to be.
They sell: this brand’s own nature-inspired perfumes, house scents and candles in unusual combinations like almond milk, fig, and sandalwood, or in combinations under such names as Mechant Loup (Big Bad Wolf)
Contact: Tel: 01 48 04 72 75
www.artisanparfumeur.com

Place: Antik Batik
18 rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: An elegant yet minimalist boutique, with fabric covered walls, and soft boudoir like couches, that also resemble a Bedouin tent. This brand just keeps growing and expanding since 1992 due to its popularity among the fashion crowd. The original pieces are eclectic, ethnic, chic and modern all at the same time.
They sell: Clothes in silks and cashmere, unique and extraordinary prints inspired from many a travel of the founders
Contact: www.antikbatik.fr

Place: Les Bains du Marais
31-33 rue de s Blancs Manteaux, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: Because at this Oriental Hammam inspired spa you can unwind, recharge your batteries and feel as if you escaped into another world, all without taking a vacation.
They sell: royal treatment at the steam bath, or the sauna, you can unwind with one of the many massages, scrubs, facials, or take care of your nails and hair. The best is just to do it all in one full day of decadence. Just in case the tight schedule between the treatments wears you down, a dim room with velvet couches designed for deep relaxation awaits you. In addition they now sell a luxurious line of beauty products such as creams and body oils with the finest natural ingredients such as jasmine and orange blossom flower.
Contact: Tel: 01 44 61 02 02
www.lesbainsdumarais.com

Place: Autour du Monde
12 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: Serge Bensimon, the founder created a whole universe, a life style environment for a modern, city dweller that needs products that are practical, understated, as well as creative and appealing. This style is apparent in the furniture as well as in the clothing styles available at his boutiques. Simple lines, spicy colors, and a general Zen atmosphere make up the allure of this store.
They sell: home furnishings with a farm like, rustic look, and objects, such as cashmere quilts and rare print pillows, lamps, candles, and more as well as clothes, and clothing accessories.
Contact: Tel: 01 42 77 16 18
www.autourdumonde.com

Place: Hier pour Demain
4 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: This antique shop specializes in Art deco furniture, china, lamps and other home objects, but also in Bakelite and Galalit jeweler, from the 20th century
They sell: Antiques as well as Bakelite jewelry (material developed in 1907-09) galalit which has a Retro appeal and has made the objects collectables in recent years
Contact: Tel: 01 42 78 14 29

Place: Les Touristes
17 rue des Blancs Manteaux, 75004 Paris
Why it’s hot: You’ll feel as if you literally stepped into a globetrotter’s trunk case. This tiny boutique is filled up too the ceiling with rare and appealing objects from around the world. Chinese notebooks, perfumes and soaps from the South of France, Persian rugs, Japanese plates, pencils, pins, bibs, dolls, incense, you name it, and they got it. All this is in fabulous bright prints, mismatched colors, rare patters and fabrics, and it makes you gape like a child and want it all!
They sell: The treasures from around the world
Contact: Tel: 01 42 72 10 84

Place: Telesis by Mina
23 rue des Blancs Manteux, 75004 Paris
Why it’s hot: Asian influenced modern clothes in fine fabrics such as silk and leather. Some of the famous Issey Miyake inspired pleats are also worked into the styles. Strong, appealing lines; you will definitely make a statement while sporting these garments.
They sell: Clothing for women and accessories
Contact: Tel: 01 42 72 12 69

Place: Comptoir de l’Image
44 rue de Sevigne, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: The history of fashion, photography and image is at your fingertips.
This tiny shop is stocked up with books, albums and magazines old and new, all relating to image. If you are interested in depictions of our modern world, or the history of style, there is no better place than this.
They sell: Books, magazines, photo albums, and newspapers.
Contact: Tel: 01 42 72 03 92

Place: Le Bazar de Julie
19 rue de Poitou, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: The very charming Julie selects her pieces carefully and offers us a lovely blend of vintage looks. Silk Flamenco shawls, 80’s and 90’s boots, 60’s A line dresses and leather coats are usually very well preserved. She focuses on quality rather then quantity, therefore the boutique is not overflowing with frocks, and is perfect for browsing around without being overwhelmed.
They sell: Funky, carefully selected vintage clothing and accessories.
Contact: Tel: 01 42 72 74 24

Place: Sandro
50 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: The looks are pretty and trendy; it is precisely the types of looks the “Jeunesse doree” or the Golden Youth of Paris is wearing to the hip parties and expos. If you took a fashion guide with the hottest trends of the season and followed it to the T, well you can be sure to get them all in this place. Some may find it a bit pretentious, but the cuts are sharp, colors timely, and lines always of the moment. If you are always in line with the newest trends, don’t miss this address.
They sell: ready to wear and bags for women.
Contact: Tel: 01 44 59 69 23

Place: 2 Mille et 1 Nuit
13 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: This is another of those secret hideaways that will instantly transport you to another world of marvels. This rather large boutique is heaving with oriental and ethnic home decoration objects, some furniture and home scents. It is a land of colors and eye-catching details, a true dreamland as the name indicates.
They sell: Candles, perfumes, incense, lamps, curtains, chairs, tables, decorations, quilts, cutlery, candle holders, table clothes and much, much more.
Contact: Tel: 01 48 87 07 07

Place: Abou d’Abi Bazar
10 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: Just the right mix of hippy chic, casual wear and modern elegance. It is the right place for a woman of any style and age. The prices range too, which makes this place popular among students as well as working women.
They sell: Little sweaters, trendy coats, dresses, bags, leather belts sequin imbedded shirts and jeans for any fashion lover.
Contact: Tel: 01 42 77 96 98
www.aboudabibazar.com

Place: Palais des Thes
64 rue Vieille du temple, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: tea nicely packed into candy colored cans, or adorable bags, in a small irresistible shop named the Tea Palace, you will find an embarrassing choice of infusions to please your palette. These luxury teas are a bit pricey but you can buy in small quantities for degustation.
They sell: more then 200 teas are available, red, white, greet, black, blended and flavored teas, as well as all the accessories you may ever need to make and serve it with style
Contact: www.palaisdesthes.com

Place: Jamin Puech
68 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: This designing couple, hand make bags so hot and original that they have become a sort of a reference to this prestigious accessory in Paris. Every one wants a Jamin Puech bag, because they are hand made from raw materials such as leather and raffia, because they come in all shapes and sizes, in the most unbelievable color combinations, and imaginative fabrics and prints. Having one of those marvels is like having a precious jewel. Everyone will notice, so if you like getting attention, these are bags made just for you!
They sell: Bags, the bags!
Contact: Tel: 01 48 87 84 87
www.jamin-puech.com

Place: Fiesta Galerie
45 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris
Why it’s hot: Most outrageous, creative, kitch and fabulous objects, art pieces and furniture from 1940’s to the 70’s. A true paradise for collectors of vintage furniture.
They sell: Funky orange furniture, disco balls, singing Elvi (I assume that’s plural for Elvis), Marilyn figurines, amazing lamps, rugs, tables and chairs each more unique then the other, collectable items from times past.
Contact: Tel: 01 42 71 53 34
www.fiesta-galerie.fr

BUS TOUR OF PARIS: L'Open Tour

L'Open Tour: Get a bird's eye view of the cobbled streets of Gay Paris. This is a great way to get a unique view of Paris even if you've visited it before and taken all the other public transportation systems available. The Open Tour buses are similar to the red double decker open top busses you'll find in the streets of London. The Parisian buses are yellow and the four tour routes are inter-connected so you can hop easily between them. They provide an excellent way to see the city from a higher vantage point than the sidewalk. There are over 30 hop on - hop off stops and the two-hour tour passes every 15 to 30 minutes daily throughout the year from 10 AM. Tickets may be purchased on the bus and are priced at $35 for adults and $16 for Children, and $40 for the two-day pass. They are valid for two days. You'll get a personal earphone set if you wish to listen to the English commentary along the way. The main departure point is at Madeleine and there are Montmartre and Bercy tour buses as well. You'll love this even if you're already familiar with the city.



Voila, the four tour routes. Your ticket is valid on ALL routes:

Paris Grand Tour
2-hour tour. Buses depart every 10 - 30 minutes from each stop. Highlights include Madeleine, Opera, Musée du Louvre, Notre-Dame, Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Musée d'Orsay, Concorde, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, Trocadero, Eiffel Tower and Invalides.

Times:
April to October - Buses depart from 9:30am to 6:00pm every 10 to 15 minutes
November to March - Buses depart from 9:30am to 4:00pm every 25 to 30 minutes

Bastille - Bercy
This is a 60-minute tour. Buses depart every 30 minutes from each stop. Highlights include Notre-Dame, Saint-Paul, Bastille, Gare de Lyon, Gare d'Austerlitz and Parc de Bercy.

Times:
All year round - Buses depart from 9:20am to 5:30pm every 30 minutes

Montmartre - Grands Boulevards
This is a 60-minute tour. Buses depart every 15 - 20 minutes from each stop. Highlights include Funiculaire de Montmartre, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est and Grands Boulevards.

Times:
April to October - Buses depart from 9:30am to 6:30pm every 10 to 15 minutes
November to March - Buses depart from 9:25am to 4:45pm every 30 minutes

Montparnasse - Saint-Germain
This is a 60-minute tour. Buses depart every 15 - 20 minutes from each stop. Highlights include Jardin du Luxembourg, Observatoire, Catacombes, Invalides and Saint-Germain-des-Pres.

Times:
April to October - Buses depart from 9:30am to 6:30pm every 15 minutes
November to March - Buses depart from 9:30am to 4:30pm every 20 to 25 minutes

For more info check out this site

HOW TO GET AN INTERNSHIP OR A JOB IN PARIS

Usually, if you want to do an internship in France the internship must be used primarily as a practice of your academic knowledge, in other words the internship needs to be conventionné, which means that there is a contract that links the university, the company and the intern. The convention de stage is a document, which your university or school as well as your internship provider will have to sign. Speak to your career counselor, and
for more information take a look at these sites:

Direct Etudiant is the leader of internship offers in France and abroad. Offers mostly for students with at least a BA degree. You will find a selection of internships abroad and practical information.

KapStages this website primarily features internships for students with a 5 year degree.

AFIJ (website of the organization for graduates and training) provides internship and first jobs in France and abroad.

Iquesta this website is for student with a 4 year degree and more. You'll find internship, first and summer jobs. Offers in France and abroad plus a forum.

InfoStages offers internship with contracts (convention) for students. Offers are for all degree levels and all majors.

InternAbroad this is a service from GoAbroad.com that provides offers for internship and work abroad.

InternJobs is a global database of internships for students, recent graduates and career changers. If you are looking for internship, then you can just register for free and have access to all the offers.

Here are a few Culinary Programs for those of you who not only want to experience Paris, but also its gourmand culture:

Le Cordon Bleu: 800-457-CHEF (from France); www.cordonbleu.net

L'Ecole des Chefs: 610-469-2500; www.leschefs.com

Lenôtre: 01 45 02 21 19; www.lenotre.com

Ritz Escoffier: 01 43 16 30 50; www.ritzparis.com

STORING BAGGAGE AT THE AIRPORT IN PARIS

Aha! It is again possible to store your luggage if you want to visit Pariggi during a layover or a short trip.
check out this website for more details

FALAFELS, CHEESECAKES and LENNY KRAVITZ

Nothing beats rue des Rosiers when it comes to Falafels, but that's not all, there are Jewish/Polish delis and bakeries with orgasmic cheesecake and strudels ahhh, ahhh!
Lenny Kravitz seems to think L'As du Fallafel is the best place for your treat though.

read this for more info



L'As du Fallafel
34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004, Paris
Metro: Saint Paul

READ FRENCH MAGAZINES IN ENGLISH

Paris is obviously the fashion and cultural Mecca and so you won’t be disappointed when it comes to the choice of magazines, regardless your taste. Here are a few that definitely have the edge, as well as English translations of some of the articles:


numéro magazine

wad magazine

jalouse magazine

For news and other info reach out for

paris voice

international herald trib

fusac

and here are a couple of my favorite addresses where you can always find international press:

WH SMITH
248 rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris
Metro: Concorde or Tuilleries

wh smith

AGORA PRESSE ET CAETERA
19 rue des Archives 75003 Paris
Metro: Hotel de Ville

paris bookshop guide

THE ABBEY BOOKSHOP
29 rue de la Parcheminerie 75005 Paris
Metro: Saint-Michel

BRENTANO'S
37 av de l'Opéra 75002 Paris
Metro: Opéra

www.brentanos.fr

GALIGNANI
22' rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris
Metro: Tuileries

SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY
37 rue de la Bûcherie 75005 Paris
Metro: Maubert-Mutualité

THE VILLAGE VOICE
6 rue Princesse 75006 Paris
Metro: Mabillon

METRO MAP: aka get with it

Paris is great by foot, but damn is it big, your feet might fall off eventually. Metro is by far the best means of getting around.
Taxis are always ok but believe me on weekend nights, early mornings or rush hour traffic in the afternoons, they are not so fun, and most importantly, no where to be found. I remember once thinking that'll be better off taking a cab and then having to get out of the cab which was totally stuck in traffic, and running down to the metro to make it to my appointment on time.
To make the short story long, you'll need the metro at some point so might as well get acquainted with it, plus it really is one of the best systems in the world. There is a stop practically on every other street.

The metro runs roughly from 5 am to about 1 am, some lines very by a few minutes.
At nights and weekends it does not come as often, but it's still pretty reliable.
You always have to look at the last stop on the line you are going to be taking as that will be the direction you'll have to take.
If you can avoid changing at large stops such as Chatelet, Montparnasse, Republique or Bastille, because sometimes the tunnels are very long and crowded. But you probably will have to do it at some point. Just for reference, when changing lines look for the sign "CORRESPONDANCE" with your lines number on it (they run by numbers, just like the arrondissements)




You can buy a number of different metro passes depending on what you need. There is a one time ticket that comes solo or is sold by ten, a day ticket, as well as an array of special tourist passes ranging from 1 - 5 days (the 5 day pass is 27€, so just get a regular week pass).
The weekly and monthly passes are called la "Carte Orange" and they are the most economical way to get around. The card is purchased from Sunday to Monday in most Metro stations and costs 16.00€/week and 52.50€/mo.
They will ask you which zones? If you are not living outside of Paris, you'll need zones 1 & 2.




You'll also need a wallet size photo for this card but some bigger stations have a booth in which to take it. Un "Carnet" which contains 10 tickets is also available for 10.50€ but less convenient. If you are moving to Paris for a longer period of time you might try their yearly ticket called Intégrale. Your choice will depend on how often you plan to use the RATP system. By all means keep your validated ticket until you get off the bus or metro. There is a fine for those caught without a ticket!
Finally the RER, is the train that will take you outside of Paris, including the Airport.
The RER lines are thicker on the map and they are not numbered, but rather have letter names such as A, B, and C

Here is the web site in English:


http://www.ratp.info/informer/anglais/index.php

Finally, if you need help figuring out all the connections as well as the time it will take you to get to your destination you may use the web site to map out your itinerary.

THE MAP OF PARIS: aka le plan de Paris

"Paris is always a good idea" - the movie Sabrina

I must agree with this quote, but I will add that it's even a better idea to walk through Paris and its large Houssmanian avenues, or its winding streets, to visit its mysterious courtyards, and its parks.
Paris is divided into twenty districts, also known as les arrondisments. These are numbered from 1 to 20, starting in the middle of the map and spreading outward like a snail.


Each district has a unique beauty and identity.
I have already mentioned some of the arrondissements in my previous posts, and will surely mention many others in the future. For now it’s important to mention that there are at least two very important and idiosyncratic identities; that of the left and that of the right bank of the Seine River. Very different vibes!
the left bank is Quartier Latin, Saint Germain des Pres, Montparnesse, Tour Eiffel, Musée d'Orsay, etc. The right bank is the Louvre, Marais, Opera, Montmartre, Chatelet/Les Halles etc.

The left was often thought of as the more bohemian part of town, now a days though, that is questionable. The left is quite bourgeoisie, although certain areas of the right bank are obviously as well. But then the right has Bastille, and the 11th district, it has Chatelet, Le Marais, the 2nd and 4th which are all very eclectic and inhabited by Les Bobos.

That's actually a good term to know. Le Bobo,a name derived from bourgeoisie bohemian, stands for a sort of a spoiled rich kids who looks like and lives like an artist. Think lower east side if you are familiar with NYC.

Anyways, here are a couple of other links for more info on the subject:


http://www.parisnet.net/parismap.html

http://www.paris.org/glossary.html

GRAFFITI WORLD OF PARIS

When in Paris, chances are you might suddenly encounter Mr. Cat (Monsieur Chat) who has become an iconic figure, which surprises Parisians and tourists alike with his enigmatic feline smile in the most random places.
I particularly remember having a coffee at Georges, a swanky cafe/restaurant situated at the top of the George Pompidou center, which boasts one of the most breath taking views of the City of Lights.
Well there I am, sipping on a café crème, and all of a sudden I notice a giant yellow grinning cat staring at me from a rooftop across the street. I loved the image but wondered who had the guts to actually climb that high. I didn't really got too curious until I spotted another such tag on a wall in Montmartre and then a few days later another one in Bastille. It wasn't long before I realized that Paris was full of Monsieur Chat graffiti graphics, and it became almost like a game, like a personal wink that would bring a smile to my face whenever I spotted a new cat somewhere unexpectedly. I later heard that he has traveled to other cities in France and even the rest of Europe.

Monsieur Chat has become such an icon that a young filmmaker Chris Marker, of La Jetee fame, made a political essay called Chat perches (Perched Cats) in which he claims that the cats started to appear after the September 11 attacks. True on not, Monsieur Chat and his dashing grin are a definitely a nice little detail about modern Paris.



check these out for more fun:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tofz4u/sets/1691054

Pour les Francophones check this out
http://monsieurchat.free.fr/MChat.php

Another fabulous Parisian graffiti treat are the sexy Fafi girls. The artist has already become a star in her own right with albums featured at the Colette ûber-store



http://www.fafi.net

http://www.myspace.com/fafinette

PARIS CRAZY

I guess I knew it already, but it has been confirmed that the obsession with Paris is not just my little personal madness, it's a contagious disease: parisbreakfasts

WHO SAID FRENCH WOMEN DON'T GET FAT?

Today I stumbled on a blog http://www.katawoo.com which claims that Parisians, not French woman don't get fat because of the amount of walking one does in the city. I do agree that in this respect Paris truly is like NY and one does walk a great deal. However, as much as I love Paris, I take it for what it is and I do admit that I never found French women to be particularly thin. Are they thinner then Americans? Yes, most every other nation is. It is true, the French are often petite people but the average weight is about 60 kg, to 160 cm, definitely not you svelte silhouette of a model which is usually at 50 Kg for 180 cm. Furthermore I also discovered this new find in the Daily Mai www.dailymail.co.uk.